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By LeNell Smothers
New York City
www.lenells.com
Bartenders have rediscovered the beauty of eggs in cocktails. Egg whites give a cocktail a nice froth and extra smooth feel. Yolks add a viscosity and richness to drinks.
Bartenders have rediscovered the beauty of eggs in cocktails. Egg whites give a cocktail a nice froth and extra smooth feel. Yolks add a viscosity and richness to drinks.

"Wow, we have a real yard!" exclaimed my partner Ben when we moved out of a co-op apartment building in Queens into a real house in Red Hook, Brooklyn. "Honey, you ain't got a real yard until you have to mow it...and you have some chickens," was my country girl response. Even though I moved to New York City from Alabama in 2000, the conclusion is that you can take the girl out of the country, but you cannot take the country out of the girl.

Within a matter of months, a neighbor came into my eponymous liquor store LeNell's, and to my surprise, she asked, "Hey, I just bought way too many chicks. They are all in my kitchen, and they are driving us nuts. They are ready to go outside now. We can't keep them all. Do you want some?" That's my kind of neighbor!

I told Ben we had better get to building a chicken coop. Excited about being a native New Yorker entering the urban farming world, he called a friend over to help build a home for our new chicks. We quickly threw together a shack made out of the old, grayed scrap wood from a fallen down fence in the back yard. We strung some chicken wire, tossed in a couple of milk crates full of hay, and added a roosting perch. We stood back to take a look at our development project. "It looks like a ghetto coop," Ben sadly concluded. "No, this is New York City. It's co-op apartment living, and these girls just got board approval to move on in. How many are we getting?" he asked. The four Ameraucanas I had agreed to take some how turned into eight by the end of the day.
Providing treats such as fruits and vegetables are fun for the birds, and a great way to use excess produce. Be careful not to feed spoiled material. Some scraps will spoil quickly, so don't feed more than what they will clean up quickly. Potato peels are usually avoided.
Providing treats such as fruits and vegetables are fun for the birds, and a great way to use excess produce. Be careful not to feed spoiled material. Some scraps will spoil quickly, so don't feed more than what they will clean up quickly. Potato peels are usually avoided.

Ben conceded in my wish to name them all. The big bossy one became Edith, named after my great aunt. The fattest "mother hen" one was crowned Beulah, a deceased great grandmother's name. The one with the prettiest coloring around her neck won the honor of Hazel, my dear grandma's name. Ben never could tell them all apart.

Every morning in those early months, the girls and I started our day with a good talk and sometimes a hug or a short cuddle. I called them all by name. "You are all precious, don't get me wrong. But if you don't lay me some eggs some day, Granny's taught me how to tie your legs to the laundry line and make some good out of you." We did not have these beauties for walks in Central Park in Sunday bonnets, after all.We patiently waited for them to mature, checking the nesting boxes every day. Finally the day came. One beautiful light blue egg! What to do with it? As a bartender, what else would I do but make a cocktail to celebrate!

A History of Cocktails Containing Eggs

Our drinking history includes many egg libations. As far back as the 1600s, a hot British drink called posset, consisting of eggs, milk, and sherry, ale or sometimes wine was enjoyed. A caudle (or cawdle) is another old drink often made with eggs.
LeNell coaxes the hens into laying beautiful eggs with some TLC and hand feeding.
LeNell coaxes the hens into laying beautiful eggs with some TLC and hand feeding.

In 1862, the first ever cocktail book debuted under the title The Bar-Tender's Guide. Author Jerry Thomas lists several cocktails containing eggs, including categories such as nogs, sours, fizzes, and even a beauty called a "Pousse l'Amour" or "Love Pusher," a layered drink containing a cherry liqueur called maraschino, an unbroken egg yolk, a vanilla cordial, and some brandy.

Throughout old cocktail books, fizzes are mentioned both with and without egg whites. "Silver Fizzes" have egg whites. "Golden Fizzes" have egg yolks. A "Royal Fizz" goes all the way and adds the yolk and white.

What About Salmonella Risks?

The 1998 USDA Salmonella Risk Assessment Report concludes that one egg per 20,000 is contaminated with salmonella. According to John Mason, D.V.M., M.P.H., the former director of the USDA Salmonella Enteritidis Control Program, an average consumer encounters a contaminated egg once in 42 years. Dr. Mason reports, "There is one outbreak for every one billion eggs consumed."
Her reward!
Her reward!

In 2002, the journal called Epidemiology reported the positive effects of alcohol in warding off salmonella. Various other studies have shown that salmonella does not like to thrive around booze. With the addition of high acid citrus juice, bacteria is even further inhibited.

Some basic rules for checking your eggs for freshness involve a container and some water. Put an egg in water. If it sinks to the bottom and lies on its side, it is very fresh—one for a raw egg drink. An egg that is three or four days old will lie at a slight angle. It is still okay to eat, but not the freshest of fresh. After the egg is about 10 days old, the egg will stand on end in water. Don't use this in a cocktail. Bake a cake with it instead. If the egg floats to the surface, it's best in the trash.
Ramos Gin Fizz

So what cocktail did we make with that first egg? The classic Ramos Gin Fizz won the honor. Henry Ramos invented it in 1888 at his bar in New Orleans. The Ramos family kept it a secret for many years.

1-1/2 ounces gin
1/2 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce lime juice
2 tablespoons cream
1 egg white
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
3 to 4 drops orange flower water
2 drops vanilla extract (optional)
Soda water

Shake all ingredients without ice to emulsify. Add ice. Shake hard for at least 30 seconds to a full minute. Strain into a wine glass or tall thin glass and top with club soda.

Folks with compromised immune systems, i.e. children, the elderly, diabetics, pregnant women, and those taking medications to reduce stomach acid, should not consume raw eggs. Do not use eggs that are cracked or show any signs of damage. Keep eggs refrigerated. Wash your hands and all surfaces well when using eggs in drinks to prevent cross contamination. After gathering, I do not immediately wash my eggs to protect the outside shell.

Ben and I no longer live together. I live in an apartment around the corner. We jokingly tell everyone that I have visitation rights to the hens. We still enjoy the chickens together and toast our feathered friends with our egg cocktails. Cheers!

LeNell Smothers grew up in Alabama with one grandfather owning a farm and the other working for a commercial chicken hatchery. For her, chickens have always been a part of the good life...and always will be, whether in the backyard, the front yard, in a skillet, or in a cocktail glass.





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